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An ancient trade route for salt and other commodities such as wool is still very much in active use between the nomads of Tibet and their kins across the border in Nepal along the valley below, Bhote Khosi which translates literally as " the river from Tibet" as the river that runs through it originates from the high Tibetan plateau which lies on the right beyond the mountains here and is reputed to be guarded fiercely by the PLA who forbids any foreigners from within a stone's throw away.
This part of the Khumbu region was once closed to foreigners but as the political situation improves it is now open to trekkers crossing from Gokyo via the high mountain pass of Renjo la. Availability of accommodation is pretty seasonal down this route at the next settlement of Lungden as it serves mainly nomads and their herds of yaks that ply this route. Normally trekkers could rely on hearsay at Gokyo to get the latest updates but as it turns out on this occasion - it is afterall unconfirmed reports and owners could suddenly pack up and decide to head elsewhere warmer for a day or two leaving their businesses unattended.
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Nepal lies between India and China and it contains Mt. Everest, the tallest mountain in the world. The Himalayas here are pretty rugged terrain.The first civilizations here date to 600 BC in the Kathmandu valley, where the capital is now located. According to Buddhist tenets, the Buddha was born here in 563 BC, incarnating as Prince Siddhartha Gautama and leading the world to enlightenment through liberation from suffering. Many small temples and shrines like this one exist for Buddhists to stop and offer prayers.Early support of Buddhism gradually gave way to Hinduism and today Nepal is the world's only Hindu monarchy. The kingdom of Nepal was united in 1768 by King Prithvi Narayan Shah, who fled the Moghul invasions of India. Soon after that there was a period of conflict with the British East India Company leading to a treaty recognizing the independence of Nepal -- in 1923!After WWII Nepal was ruled by monarchy but it arrived at the 1990's split by an official ban on political parties. Intense protest by the pro-democracy movement and the Maoist guerrilla Communist movement led to free elections in 1991, only to be followed by violence between the Nepalese government and Maoist guerillas.Since the turn of the millennium there have been several important steps taken in the peace process, including a new Constitution for Nepal and a cease fire agreement with the rebels. A compromise government was achieved whereby a Maoist was elected prime minister without his taking control of the armed forces of the country.At the time of this writing it has been one week since the compromise government has collapsed. We offer our hopes that the citizens and government of this beautiful country will come to a peaceful agreement soon.Text by Steve Smith.
