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Yukon River - Lillian Alling mystery
Canada

This view shows the wild & remote Yukon River near Forty Mile, Yukon Territory.  As I was standing here, I was thinking about the unusual case of a woman named Lillian Alling who likely floated right past this area in her rowboat in 1929, probably in a setting that looked no different than today.  Her real name is not known & the given name is likely Anglicized from her native language.  Often when I embark on a solo trip that often could have insane aspects to it, I often remember what this woman did in far worse circumstances to accomplish a goal.  More info below:

 

Lillian Alling (1896 – after 1929) was an Eastern European immigrant to the United States, who in the 1920s attempted a return by foot to her homeland. Her four-year-long journey started in New York, and went westward across Canada, then north through British Columbia, the Yukon, and then west again through Alaska. Whether she successfully crossed the Bering Strait to Russia is unknown.

Because her first appearance in official records was September 10, 1927, when she was arraigned in Hazelton, details before that, including her birth, emigration, and early journey, are impossible to confirm. Alling probably was born in either Russia or Poland some time around 1900.

One of the earliest articles recounting her journey, published in a 1943 issue of The Beaver, simply stated Alling "could not stand the loneliness and the nostalgia any longer ... Siberia was her objective. Once there, among her own people, it would be easy to arrange passage from Vladivostok to her beloved steppes. She could almost hear the deep-toned laughs of the peasants at the market place and the tinkle of the music for the dance."

According to a 1949 article in Coronet, Alling had been sent by her family to the United States in the 1920s to check if they could find a safe refuge there following the Russian Revolution; she began her journey upon hearing that her family had been jailed.

In 1973, retired Royal Canadian Mounted Police officer T.E.E. Greenfield, who had been stationed at Hazelton in 1927, wrote to a local newspaper, the Vancouver Province, with his version of events;  according to Greenfield, she had come from North Dakota, pursuing her boyfriend, who was also from Poland and had promised to marry her. Although he had disappeared before the ceremony, she had heard he was in Telegraph Creek.

 

By 1926, Alling had been steadily working in New York, saving up for passage to Russia. Upon finding she still could not afford passage aboard a steamer ship, she instead chose to walk to Siberia. Alling studied books and maps in the New York Library, and had drawn a "rough outline" of her journey.

She first walked to Buffalo, then crossed into Canada at Niagara Falls on Christmas Eve, 1926. When the customs official asked her the routine entry questions, she stated her last place of residence was Rochester, New York, she was a Catholic, she was 30 years old, and had been born in Poland.

Dickey's accounts gave an alternative origin: she was 25 and had left New York City in spring 1927 instead,  back-calculating from the 30 miles/day (48 kilometres/day) walking pace she averaged from Vancouver to Smithers in 1928. Beaver and Coronet stated she was remembered in Chicago, Minneapolis, and Winnipeg, where she had worked in restaurants, and then farm fields in Canada, where she helped with the harvest.

 

By September 10, 1927, the first official records show that Alling had reached Canada's western edge, 60 mi (97 km) north of Hazelton, British Columbia,  having walked an average of 30 miles (48 km) per day.  She was stopped by a telegraph lineman at Cabin 2 of the Yukon Telegraph Trail, a 1,000-mile (1,600 km) pathway to Canada's far north; the Telegraph Trail was marked by staffed cabins that served as relay stations and line maintenance, spaced at approximately 30 mi (48 km) intervals.  The lineman noticed Alling's tattered and malnourished appearance, and, after hearing her intention to walk to Siberia, he phoned the authorities at Hazelton, at the southern trailhead, out of concern for her welfare.

 

Constable J. A. Wyman arrived at Cabin 2 (Greenfield says it was Kispiox)  knowing the coming winter would be deadly to someone on foot; fearing that allowing Alling to proceed would be unethical, he brought her back with him to Hazelton. Though she pleaded to continue, she was arrested and charged with vagrancy. When she was searched, they found two ten-dollar bills and an iron bar (or pipe) 18 in (460 mm) long, which she declared was "protection against men", not wild animals.  She spent the next two months in Oakalla Prison, near Vancouver,  as an alternative to the $25 fine for vagrancy; this also gave her temporary shelter.  After her release, she spent the rest of the winter working in a Vancouver restaurant, and saved up enough money to travel again by the end of May or June 1928.

 

By July 19, she had reached Smithers,  which meant she had averaged 30–40 mi (48–64 km) per day on foot since she left Vancouver. By this time, her story had become known among the British Columbia police force, and she was asked by Sgt. Andy Fairbarn of the British Columbia Provincial Police to report to each of the cabins along the Telegraph Trail as a condition to continue her odyssey.  At each cabin, she received assistance including food, clothing, and even a dog companion named Bruno at Cabin 8, when she arrived there on September 12 according to Dickie's 1972 account.  She tarried there a few days, as the linemen convinced her to rest while it was snowing and gave her clothing.

Local newspaper articles indicate that Alling was ahead of Dickie's timeline: on August 31, an article in the Whitehorse Star noted that she had arrived in Whitehorse and was given the nickname "the Mystery Woman" for her taciturn nature. After leaving Whitehorse, she was spotted on September 7 east of Takhina; a man offered her a ride, which she declined.

 

When she reached Atlin, BC the dog had died,  possibly after ingesting poison from traps meant for wolverines,  but Alling was remembered for carrying its stuffed form with her, as she had vowed "he will always remain with me" when he was gifted to her. By October or November 1928,  Alling had reached Dawson City, Yukon,  where locals had heard of her story and were anticipating her arrival. It was estimated she had walked from Whitehorse to Dawson in just 39 days. She again spent the winter working, and saved up enough money to purchase and repair a boat, which, the next spring (1929), she intended to sail along the Yukon River into Alaska.

 

The following is excerpted from Calvin Rutstrum's book, The New Way of the Wilderness

Starting out again, she hiked along the Telegraph Trail, over the wild mountain passes, finally reaching Dawson where she worked as a cook, purchased and repaired an old boat, and in the spring of 1929, launched it into the waters of the Yukon River right behind the outgoing ice reaching a point east of the Seward Peninsula. She abandoned the boat for overland travel, reaching Nome and later Bering Strait.

 

According to Greenfield, Alling's journey had ended instead at Telegraph Creek in October 1928; she wrote a letter to Greenfield later that year, telling him that she never found her peripatetic boyfriend, but instead had met and married a local man;  in the letter, she thanked him for delaying her arrival by a year. Pybus believes that Alling's documented inexplicably long, eight-month stay in Dawson City  is better explained by Greenfield's secondhand account, speculating that she had met and become involved with a trapper in Dawson City during the winter of 1928, following him into the wild when the ice began to break up the following spring.

 

The Beaver reported that Alling sailed safely through Tanana to Nome, where she left the boat and began walking again. Bill and Ruth Albee, a married couple who followed Alling's route a few years later, said in their travelogue Alaska Challenge (1940) the mail carrier at Nome remembered Alling passing through the city.

My insert --> This view is downstream from Dawson City - I would imagine she would have seen the buildings of nearby Forty Mile.

The accounts from 1943 and 1949 give her last reported position outside Teller, Alaska, near North America's westernmost point, in 1929, where she reportedly was seen by an Inuk person.  "She pulled a contraption like a cart, containing her few possessions. On top of the pile, the Inuk person added, rested a queer thing that looked like the body of a black-and-white dog."  The Albees continued this to a sad ending, stating that her tracks ended at the edge of a swollen river and she was presumed drowned; this was echoed by the Inuk person's account. At minimum, she had walked 5,000 miles (8,000 km).

 

An excerpt from Susan Smith-Josephy's book Lillian Alling: The Journey Home (2011) gives an alternative possibility for Lillian's fate:

In spite of strained relations between the US and the Soviet Union in 1929, the Native people of both countries still traveled regularly across the strait each year from June through November—when the water was usually ice-free—in order to trade and buy supplies. This traffic was either ignored or undetected by authorities on either side of the strait.

 

Travel between the two countries was common, and it would have been quite normal for someone to pay for a passage across the Strait. What happened to her once she reached Soviet Russia remained unknown until a cryptic report said she had been spotted after crossing the Bering Strait.

 

In 1972, author Francis Dickie published an account of Alling's journey in True West Magazine.  In 1975, Dickie republished the story with a new postscript in which he noted that after his True West article, a reader named Arthur Elmore wrote to him, recounting a "peculiar" story Elmore had heard from a Russian friend in 1965.  In fall 1930, Elmore's friend was on the waterfront of Provideniya, 150 miles (240 km) west of Nome. On the beach were several officials interrogating a group—three Inuit men from the Diomede Islands and one Caucasian woman, all standing near a boat. It is not certain if this woman was, in fact, Lillian Alling.

 

From: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lillian_Alling

Copyright: William L
Type: Spherical
Resolution: 12804x6402
Taken: 05/07/2023
Uploaded: 01/09/2023
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Tags: yukon river; forty mile; gold rush; yukon territory; lillian alling; ice jam; mystery woman; homesick
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