A town swarming with tourists does its best to cater to their nighttime whims and to make some money besides. But it's still possible to find a few places to drink, sup, listen or dance where not everyone is foreign or wearing a baseball cap backward or tripping out on Ecstasy.
Prague has some nice jazz, and like everything here, the price is reasonable. Downstairs at U Maleho Glena (At Little Glenn's) is a small cellar with tables and an unusually good selection of local groups, including the excellent Robert Balzar Trio; Jan Knop, a pianist who calls himself Najponk; and Yvonne Sanchez, a popular half- Cuban, half-Polish chanteuse. There is a cafe and bar upstairs; the jazz club in the basement has a cover charge of 90 crowns, all of $2.30, at 39 crowns to the dollar.
Little Glenn is an American, Glenn Spicker, who also introduced bagels to Prague at his four Bohemia Bagel restaurants. But his jazz club has a friendly, local feel and it's close to the crowded Charles Bridge, which you'll end up strolling at night even if you vow not to.