Varanasi is located on the west side of the Ganges river. Here you'll find tourists, cremation, and garbage. On other side of the Ganges is unspoiled land. There stil is some garbage, but significantly less. Many people prefer to bathe on this side. There's a cafe serving chai and samosas. There are also young kids competing to sell you horse rides. If you're in Varanasi, you should take an hour to cross and get a different feel for the place.